Loom



Aug. 30, 1927. l,640,813

s. BARNwEl- L ET AL LOOM Filed Feb.25. 1925 5 sheets-sheet 1 FIG. l.

S. BARNWELL ETAL LOOM Filed Feb.25, 1925 5 sheets-sheet "2 F/ a. 1 V

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Aug. 30,1927. 15640813l S. BARNWELL ET AL Loom Filed Feb. 25. 1s25 5 sheets-sheet 5 Aug. 30, 1927. 1,640,813

S. BARNWELL ET AL LOOM Filed Feb. 25, 1925 5 sheets-sheet 4 Aug. 30,1927. 1,640,813

- s. BARNwi-:LL ET AL Loom Filed Feb.25, 1925 v 5 sheets-sheet 5 ma" i Patented Aug. 30, 1927.

.PATENT oFF-ics.

STE'PHEN BARNWELL, OF

MANCHESTER, AND REGINALD HARRINGTON BARNWELL,

OF IFOTTER HEIGHAM, ENGLAND. 1

Loon.

Application filed February 25, 1925, Serial No.

This invention relates to the weaving art, and has for its principalobject the direct production in a loom, of fabrics orarticles of wearing apparel of varying width or length in different parts thereof, thereby enabling said articles to accommodate them-` selves or conform to the shape of the body.

A further object of the invention is the provision, in combination with a loom, of efficient means for selectively taking up sections of the warp threads independently of other sections during the weaving operations, so as to produce a fabric the length or width of which varies in accordance with a predetermined design.

lilith the foregoing and other objects in view, which will appear as the description proceeds, the invention consists in the novel features of construction and combination of parts which will bek more fully'described hereinafter and particularly pointed out in the claims.

ln the drawings accompanying and forming part of this speciicatiom- Fig. l (which is onSheets 1 and 2) is a general elevation in the nature of a diagram showing in part the improvements applied to an ordinary type of loom provided with jacquard or other harness shown diagrammatically only in Figs. vl and 7 the creel being indicated in side elevation.

Figs. 2 and 3 are views in enlarged side elevation and plan of one of the controlled units (that is the rearmost one)v supplying each a warp end from a separate head on the creel and these views are to be examined with respect to the creel shown in Fig. l.

Fig. et is a rear end elevation of one half of the creel seen in Fig. 1. Y

Fig. a is a detail view of parts also shown in Fig. A. l

Fig. 5 shows a diagrammatic plan view of the two halves of the creel the latter being illustrated in the drawings as made in two parts, one being movable to the left and the other to the right to easily open up access to the reed through whichV the warp's pass and to allow of accessy to supply fresh sources of warp ends on the inside of the halves of the creel.

Fig. 6 is a diagram indicating one form of mechanism which may be used to actuate 11,430,7and in Great .Britain February 27, 19.24.

the parts controlling they sectional feed of the selectedY sections of warp.

Fig. is a side View showing one group of the sectional feedmechanism and the means for actuating the same.

Fig. 8 shows a rear elevation of certain of the parts seen in Fig. 7. i

Fig. 9 is a partial plan view of Fig. k7. Fig. 10 shows separately the sectional feed mechanism. l m Fig. l1 is a detail plan view of Fig. 10Q The drawings show a wooden built-up creel marked generally A, the creel illus-A trated being in two parts as indicated in Fig. 5 each'properly supported and flexibly secured by thin flexible springs A to the loose reed baulk. Each package carrier of Warp, as for instance the cheeses c, is carried upon a spindle a fixed in the horizontal barsV at, one spindle aiv serving fortwo cheeses aA or package carriers one on either side of the horizontal bars ai. A movable bent wire a'd'keeps the cheeses in place on the spindle-(seeFig. such bent wire c3 being capable of swivelling out of place to allow of ready introduction of the cheeses a. Each `warp end Lax drawn olf the cheese a passes under andY then over a iiXed tensioning rod w* and ispthen led under the bent wire a? ofthe nextipackage carrier group immediately in the rear, and a weight f/.S puts a tension or load on each'warp end er. The warpends ai* from each horizontal ba r a? are led'over a grooved wooden sleeve a carried upona spindle 'a also liXed in the horizontal bar a2. A bent wire a7 confines each grooved wooden sleeve a5 in place, one wire (v7 serving two grooved wooden sleeves a5V as is obvious from Fig. 3, which represents the rearmost group in connection with a package carrier. on each horizontal bar (L2. Each package carrier may be otherwise controlled and loaded by any known or suitable means calculated to permit of coinpact grouping of the supplyfor. eachv warp end and to resist too easyA rotation of each warp end.

It is clearthat in the illustrated arrange! ment siX properly tensioned warp ends a from each side of each horizontal bar a peas over each grooved sleeve t5 and these warp ends a* areled downwards and upwards lll.

according to whether the disposition of source of supply is above or below the horizontal level of the lineof the shedf7 We show the warps coming downwards and upwards as passing between the teeth of combs b, b two in .connection with each complete unit of the Creel. The said warps then pass around rollers c, c carried on spindles c", c. The intention is to keep each warp end separate and distinct and to bring` the warp ends in regular .order into -a horizontal plane and this is illustrated by Fig. l.

type.

The warp threads ax all lying in a horizontal plane are next passed through the dents of a loose reed Z which is an easy lit in the slot of ytwo supporting baulks a?, d', carried on the `flexible springs A.

The warp ends are next passed through healds e which are actuated by jacquard, dobby7 or any other harness capable of providing considerable shedding power. In the drawing the warp ends are supposed to be threaded through the assembly of healds e which are operated according` to the cards or other pattern controlling arrangement governing the shedding as well known.

The warp ends next pass through the beatup reed f and over ythe sley f which vworks and beats-up in ordinary manner and the shuttle is reciprocated in the shed'in known fashion. 'lf varied weft is to be inserted the loom may have movable shuttle box mechanism.

From the sley f thewoven fabric or garment passes through a temple g .of suitable rThe temple roller g is sustained in slidable slotted brackets g braced by wires g2, the brackets being capable of yielding against springs g3. The fabric next passes to sectional rolls to be dealt with later, and over a breast-.beam h to ordinary batching mechanism, notv shown.

Prior to reaching 4the breast-beam 71, and batching mechanism v:the fabric is acted upon by sectional rolls. These may be arranged at right-angles to the direction of travel of the warps across or partly across the width of the loom, or same may be arranged at an angle or diagonally and these means are in eli'ect the sectional taking-up devices.

lVe illustrate a series of closely spaced upper and lower rolls of narrow width Say or more or less and such rolls work in pairs (one upper and one lower) or sets may be requisite. The series of rolls may have any desired disposition viewed in plan as explained, as for examplevthey may be parallel one to another, or they may incline slightly on opposite sides of the centr-e, or a K varied disposition may be arranged.

ln the drawing we illustrate upper rolls z' which are each carried upon a shaft z" in a bent metal frame i2 fulcrumed at 3. A spring i4 held from the longitudinal angleiron cross-bar presses on each bent-metal frame so as to provide a resilient pressure on the sectional upper roll z', which roll may becovered with rubber or suchroller may be spiked or serrated or of other type. The lower roller /c is shown toothed or serrated and is rotatable upon a shaft 7c', and gearing with this lower roller /c is a toothed ,pinion Z carried on a shaft Z. With this toothed pinion Z gears a small pinion mV on a `shaft m and which small pinion m iscompounded with a ratchet wheel n. The ratchet wheel ais acted upon at the required times to effect the sectional feed. The centres supporting the wheels lr, Z, m, and a are carried in closely pitched brackets a. The arrangement illustrated for acting on the ratchet wheel n consists of a lever 0 fulcrumed at o and which has a spring held pawl ko2 givoted at o3 the upper end of the lever o having a preparation or contacting face 0l. Thus we provide a series of actuating levers with pawls, one lever for Veach pair of sectional rolls, Lsuch levers being closely pitched and arranged like pedals` or keys located side by side across the width of the loom. By acting on .the ratchet wheel y, a any pair Vof sectional feed rolls z', 7c maybe actuated to effect a feed. When not acted upon any such p air of lrolls will cease to feed.

henever a lever 0 is actuated it operates its pair of feed rolls z', 7c as stated, and, ifnot actuated the rolls e', c are not operated and no feed takes place .across that section, weft not being inserted .in such section 'and no sectional take-up occuring. Y

Each lever 0 fulcrumedat 0 is flexibly connected by a cord or attachment o* to .a provided heald and tie-up to the jacquardor the like, or ,to one of the healds and tie-ups in `each separate section to be separately controlled, the object being to effect a sectional taking-up as and vwhen required. For example, if 25 warp ends pass between two sectional take-up rolls then only upon actuationfof the heald controlling that section will a feed of 4warp take place.

lVi-th Vrespect to the drawings: if the controlling tie-up `0x for any section be actuated by the jacquard, or Aequivalent means, then the lever 0 is `moved on its fulcrum o and the pawl 02 is carried down and slips Sover the teeth of the ratchet wheel a and sets ready for the sectional feed to he effected. l l

`Below the kpreparation or contacting-face n connected by a'link 773 to a cranked lever p? fulcrumed at p5. This cranked lever p".

operated by a revolving `cam g on the shaft i g driven in any suitable manner from any revolving part of the loom'.

` ,The result of this Varrangement is, that the cam y) is valways being rocked and` whenever" the jacquard acting through vthe particular i'iexible connection or connections oxsetsone or any of the "levers by raising the longer end, then on the next upward i'oclring'inotion of the cam a one or more ofthe sectional feed rolls are operated throu'glr the ratchet mechanism. In effect, the jacquart mechanism selects and sets the levers o which are to operate to actuate the desired sectional rolls and it will be understood that unless the harness actuates any particular lever the cam p does not influence such lever.

Although we have mentioned jacquard controlled harness for actuating the levers o wedo not restrict ourselves to such because other suitable controlling mechanism may be employed as will be understood. The ordinary healds are tied-up in ordinary fashion and each heald has or may have cord orY lingoe or weight as indicated. The shed controlling healds pass up through a cumber-board such as r of ordinary or suitable description.

The creel A illustrated, is, as stated, made in two parts each capable of being moved one to the right and the other to the left to a slight extent. This gives easy access to the central part of the baclr of the loom and allows of ready replacement after exhaustion of the warp supplies upon the spindles in the creel.

The structure carrying the sectional feed rollers and gear for each set of feed rolls i,

7c is shown consisting of brackets s with shaped timber longitudinal member t to which the thin metal bracket supports n for the sectional rolls are secured, the brachets s being braced by the angle-iron bar j, the complete structure being adjustably bolted to the back of the breast beam z. by bolts t, provision being made in the form of oppositely arranged slots or otherwise to permit of adiustment.

It will be clear that the harness, of whatever type, sets the pedal levers o and con-Y trols sameV and whenever one or more is set the actuation follows on the upward rocking motion of cani ,o and the related sectional feed takes place only over the selected section or sections of warp.

Thatever the particular arrangement of means for actuating any set or sets of sectional rolls, the sectional taking-up devices are indeoendent and harness controlled and suliiciently narrow to affect only the desired width of warp space, and thus, just as the harness controls so a sectional taking-up is effected. `We thus, in equivalent manner control the take-up over narrow sections and we control any sections by harness mechanism, and we provide means to actuate the sections which the harness allows to be actuated.

"The yfabric or garments woven in our loom is or -batched*upon abeam in any suitable fashi'on'or otherwise' taken up when finished by means appropriate for the pnrpose. v Y lfxefhave indicated how` a sectional takeup of the ywaips can be brought about for the time being across such stretches or widths where itl is desired that the relative lengthshall` bevlonger, and. itis obvious that shorter stretches 'or widths stand still' or move more slowly as the character of the garments or fabric requiresa In the weaving of garments or fabrics according to our invention it is apparent that the warps are moved in sections of any number of unit warps and the movements of the sections can vary to any desired extent or relatively while the weft is inserted to such an extent as to suit and conformrwith the sections of warp which are for the time being advanced, and require to be filled with weft; or according to the shuttling facilities provided in the loom. The whole arrangement lends itself to sectional control of the warps longitudinally and to sectional control of the weft laterally and with respect to the entire width.

`As an instance of the character of garments to which our invention is applicable we may refer to a corset. It is to be understood however, that our invention includes the direct production in the loom of other garments or fabrics from which garments can be fashioned, and to other fabrics or length which might with advantage `be woven to desired form in our new loom.

If a built-up corset be examined it is ob" vious that the garment gradually enlarges above the waist line and is shaped to accommodate and fit the breasts, and, that such corset is also enlarged or made more accommodating where it fits around the hips below the waist line. This shaping of the garment has hitherto been done by building it up of a number of sections stitched together, with strengthening and shape preserving parts, as is well known.

By means of the present invention a gai ment or -a fabric can be woven direct to conform to a required shape to lit or partly lit the figure or desired part of the body.

Obviously our invention is susceptible of considerable modification and amplification and the foregoing is intended only to indicate its nature and with respect to a loom of the simplest character.

We declare that what we claim is:

1. The combination'witha loom having a harness, of a series of independent pairs of rotatable feed rollers extending across the loom, independent gearing for rotating each pair of rollers, normally inoperative ratchet mechanism adapted to engage said gearing, means automatically actuated by the harness` for selectively setting said ratchet meehanism in operative relation to said gearing,`

- and a rocking cam member adapted to` actuing across the loom, means for rendering said rollers normally inoperative, independent ear'ing vfor rotating eah pair of rollers,V a d ratchet means operated lbywa cam and with provision for selection ofthe sectional means lofi feeding by actuation from the harness all for the purposes related. In testimony whereof ,they have ,signed their naines to this specification.

srTEgHEN BRNWELL. ,l y l `REGINLD HARRINCTON vMRW/l2LL, 

